The market determines what models are needed. These needs tend
to cluster into market segments and allow us to look at types of
models. It is important to understand the type of model you want
to be. By understanding the type of modeling you are interested
in you can learn what the requirements are and if you can meet
them. This also helps in avoiding getting ripped off (more about
this on a later chapter). I have seen the greatest number of
rip-offs and bad business decision happen when a wannabe model is
thinking of one type of modeling (usually high fashion) and a
scout, agent, photographer, etc. is recruiting for another (life
style, Playboy glamour). So it is very important you understand
what type of modeling you are interested in.
Fashion Modeling
The
Garment and Beauty product industries are large users of models.
People want to see what clothes or beauty products look like on
somebody. Your high-fashion, designer-label garments, are
designed for what fashion designers view as the "ideal woman."
This is someone tall and slender, somewhat leggy, with a swan
like neck and very young. In major markets like Nairobi, this is someone
who is 5'9" to 6' tall and from a size 8 to a size 0 depending
on what is in. For men it is at least 6 foot tall and a 40 regular
- of course, you have to have that "look" to go with the
clothes.
In secondary markets we would like to have this
but often work with fashion models that don't meet these measurements.
It is more important you just have a look of being tall and
slender and that the sample clothes will fit you. The "look"
can run from classic beauty to some extreme looks for fashion.
If
you are going to work in front of the camera you need to be
photogenic, and this you won't know until you do a test shoot.
Usually the face is oval shape, with symmetry to the facial features.
Eyes are almond shape. The cheekbones should be strong and nose
straight and proportioned. Lips should be full. All of this just
puts you in the general category; from there it is a matter of what
the market demands are.
On the money - Top New
York High Fashion models (there are just a handful of these
folks) make more money than any other models (I have seen incomes
as high as eight million a year). By contrast a model doing a
fashion show at a local mall may get paid nothing. This shows the
wide range of income one might expect in fashion modeling. Most
folks who try to make it as fashion models will earn almost
nothing so don't quit your day job.
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Jamaican Model: Janelle Gordon |
Types of Fashion modeling:
FASHION EDITORIAL MODELING
- Vogue, Elle, Glamour, Cosmo, etc. - these and many other
magazines today that focus on fashion have lots of editorial
pages they must fill each month. Many of these editorial pages
feature models wearing what the magazine thinks will be the next
trend in fashion. Editorial work does not pay as well as other
types of high fashion modeling but it is great for building a
model's reputation and getting tear sheets for one's portfolio.
Also, because fashion magazines are not as constrained as
advertising work, they can use more 'extreme' and 'special beauty'
models in their pages.
FASHION RUNWAY MODELING -
Clothing designers traditionally show their new collections
twice a year to perspective (store) buyers. (buyers is a key word
here, if some one is putting on a fashion show without buyer
then it is entertainment) As an example, the Swahili fashion week
passed with 35 plus designers presenting collections for the
event held in Tanzania Last year (note 2010 slow economy has not been
kind to the fashion industry). Designers present these
collections to a gathering of buyers by sending models down a
walkway or runway. How well a model brings the clothes to life
and shows important features of the garments can determine how
well they sell. So it is worth it to a designer to have the most
ideal models show these collections. This leads to why models
have to meet very strict requirements and why they get such high
fees for this type of work (modeling agencies have also forced up
fees). These young models tend to be very tall, slender and move
very well in clothes.
FASHION CATALOG MODELING -
There are a lot of clothing catalogs produced. (I know because
my significant other gets most of them and tries to keep them all
in business by constantly buying from them.) These catalogs,
whether business-to-business, store, or direct marketing, require
models to pose in the clothes they are trying to sell.
Generally, catalog models are picked for a project because they
represent the ideal of the market segment for which that catalog
is targeted. Often times this is the classic beauty - tall,
slender, healthy, and beautiful. The marketing idea is for transference,
i.e. if you buy these clothes you will look as nice as the
person pictured in the catalog. Catalog modeling usually pays
well because of the volume of photos that must be taken. When I
was sharing space with a couple of photographers who shot for a
department store chain they could be shooting for weeks with
models to produce at catalog.
FASHION PRINT MODELING
- This is fashion and beauty for print advertising. It can be
display ads or collateral print materials. This is the most
demanding work to get but pays the best because of usage and
exclusives (this is where models make millions). These are the ads that
can make or break a designer's reputation. With these ads it is
very important that the concept, photo, and model work perfectly
to convey the 'image' that is wanted.
FASHION SHOW ROOM MODELING
- Modeling for buyers in the designer's show room. This is lower pay
but very regular work, it could even be a full time job. Only happens
where there are designer show rooms.
FASHION LINGERIE MODELING - Because this type of modeling may be more revealing it requires very good body tone and proportions.
FASHION BATHING SUIT MODELING - Again, more revealing requires excellent body tone and a healthy look. In this case the models were very fit.
FASHION FITNESS MODELING
- As health and fitness has moved more into the public
consciousness a greater demand has grown in this type of
modeling. Of course being in the city with the corporate
headquarters for Nike, Adidas, and Columbia Sportswear makes it
very noticeable here. Where once everyone exercised in baggy gray
sweats, fitness attire continues to evolve and become more
everyday wear. Add to this all of the fitness, health, and
outdoor lifestyle magazines that are on the newsstands and you have a
fast growing category for modeling.
FASHION FIT MODELING
- Fit models have the perfect proportions for a given clothing
size. Garment manufactures and designers hire fit models to use
to piece together new creations, see how they move, and develop
their patterns. The key for a fit model is to never gain or loose
an inch. A clothing manufacturer may hire a fit model as a
permanent salary position. It is one type of legitimate modeling
that you can see advertised in the classified section of the
newspaper.
FASHION TEAROOM MODELING -
This once was very popular (the '80s) in smaller markets. Usually
it would be at ladies' luncheons where models would wander
between tables wearing designer clothes from local fashion
boutiques. The models would describe the outfit they wore and
where to buy it. Not big bucks, but a place to start and gain
confidence in a small market.
FURTHER DIVISIONS
- These categories can have further sub-categories for size -
petite and plus, and for age - children, preteen, and mature.
Petite size models usually are 5'2" to 5'6". Plus size is the
same height as standard size models but size 14 -16. Main stream
models usually start in around 14 years of age and go to their
early twenties. Obviously pre-teen is before this age and mature is
everything after it.
A category of
modeling will only be found where there are clients to support
it. Since almost all of the fashion magazines are based in
cities, that is where you will find work in the fashion editorial
modeling category.
Body Part Modeling
Body
part modeling is a special category that belongs in both fashion
and commercial modeling. This is the use of just part of the
body in a photograph. Often standard models that look great in
full-length shots or head-shots don't look so good close up.
Their hands or feet may look horrible. This is where the body
parts model comes in. We will set up a shoot using the standard
model's face but the body part model's hands and it looks like it
is just one person. Usually body part models will specialize in
just one part of the body like hands, feet, legs, ears, or neck.
Hand
models are one type of body part model that I have had more call
for. With hand models we look for long slender graceful hand and
fingers. We also look for smooth (no wrinkles, hair or large
pours), clear (no blemishes or irregular color) skin, and very
good nails. The ability to pose the hand in a relaxed graceful
fashion is very important. This is like a hula dancer that can
tell a story with their hands and avoid what I call "the claw"
that most folks produce when put in front of the camera.
Body
parts model follow a similar path as regular models with finding
modeling agencies, building portfolios and having comp cards.
They simply pursue a very special niche market.
Commercial Modeling
Commercial
modeling is sort of the catch all for everything that isn't
fashion and isn't glamour. It is vast and diverse. The physical
requirements can vary greatly. The 'look' can be mom, business
executive, scientist, glamorous beauty, etc. The pay can be good
but not to the level of the top fashion model and commercial
models tend to find work less often. But it can be an area on can
work part time at their whole life. Again, the purpose is to
sell something - a product, service, or idea.
Some Categories of Commercial Modeling are:
COMMERCIAL PRODUCT MODELING
- Generally we are generating a photo to sell a product and the
model is used to show how the product is used. Also, model may be
used to convey an image about a product. An example would be a
model dressed like a doctor holding a blood pressure device. This
gives an image of medical authority being behind the product.
There is also the old Madison Avenue technique of selling a
product by putting someone attractive by it. Although it may not
be politically correct to do this, it still is done and it works.
People stop to look at a pretty face, not at another vanilla
computer box. The physical requirements and look for commercial
product modeling can vary a great deal. It all depends on the
image or story you are trying to tell. This is where character models
are used.
COMMERCIAL LIFESTYLE MODELING
- Models are used in photos showing a period of life or doing
something in life. The photo might be an older couple walking on
the beach and the photo is used in the advertising materials for a
new retirement resort. Or a photo of a young couple playing in a
park with their children and the photo is used in an ad for a
life insurance company. The models are used to act out some
concept or idea of life. The physical requirements, age, size,
etc. can vary greatly. But most often they use the "beautiful
people" in these photos rather then real folks off the street.
COMMERCIAL CORPORATE MODELING
- Corporate modeling is like Lifestyle but it always has a
business theme. Again physical requirements can vary greatly, but
usually attractive people are used - although sometimes character
models are used.
PRODUCT DEMO -
In smaller markets this seems to be a favorite area to start
models. Models stand in front of, or in a store or mall, and hand
out free samples of something. The idea is they want someone
attractive that people will be drawn to and will work for just a
few hours or a few days. When you are young and starting out this
pays better then any regular job and it can really build your
confidence around people.
TRADE SHOW MODELING
- Once again attractive people are attention getters. When a
trade show comes to town some exhibitors may hire models to hand
out literature at their booths. One of the classics examples of
this is the auto show. Again, it gives some income when you are
starting out and gets you in front of the public.
SPORTS/ATHETICALLY PROFICIENT/FITNESS
- This is kind of lumping a lot together but this has been a
growing area in modeling. With sport attire companies like Nike
and the increase number of personal sports, fitness and outdoor
magazines the need for models that look like they actually know
what they are doing has grown. The idea is to look good and
actual be proficient at the activity being photographed.
HOBBY MODELING
- This is modeling for the fun of it, to help out a cause or a
place to get started. Some folks may never make a living at
modeling but enjoy being in front of the camera or being on the
runway. It also ties in with organization that might put on a
fashion show as a fundraiser. There have also been cases where
some one may start modeling just for fun and this may some day lead
to a career.
ALTERNATIVE MODELING - This term has been coined for the whole gothic/punk modeling. This is a very specialize niche
WARM BODY MODELING
- This is my own term (unflattering as it is) . This is where
you just need someone to put in a photo. When doing an outdoor
tourist bureau type photos you often find you need someone hiking
a trail or standing at an overlook, this is where you need a
warm body to help animate the photo. This type of modeling does
not pay much and may even be done on spec, but if you like doing
outdoors or tourist activities it is a chance to make a dollar
while having fun. This type of modeling can be open to all ages and
sizes.
Glamour Modeling
Glamour
modeling is modeling for photos with a sexual theme. This might
be a simple cheesecake or beefcake photo. They can include
bikini, sexy outfits and lingerie modeling. On the cheesecake
level, photos can be used for calendars, posters, and other
pin-up girl products. You can't pick up a car magazine without
seeing a babe by the car or truck. As one moves to greater states of
undress you move to the adult entertainment industry with high-end
men's magazines like Playboy and then on down to the low-end
back-ally magazines. But it is the Internet that dominates this
field and is now loaded with all levels of sexual model photos.
Glamour modeling and its triple X component is a very big
industry. Top glamour models can make as much as top fashion
models. But what is different from other types of modeling is all
grade levels in glamour modeling can make good money and it is common
for an established model to make over $100,000 a year. There are
no height or size requirements as in fashion modeling. Where
fashion modeling wants you to look like a beanstalk, glamour modeling
wants you to have curves like a young Pamela Anderson. Where
fashion may want a 'special beauty look', glamour modeling wants
traditional drop dead gorgeous; where fashion really only happens
in cities, glamour can happen anywhere and does.
You
have to be over 18 to do glamour modeling even cheesecake. With
the way the laws are today a photographer runs a real risk doing any
kind of sexy photo with someone under 18. With news story reporting
mothers are being thrown in jail for photographing their own
children taking a bath and putting the photo in a family album, I
think the risk is too great and the return too small to do any
glamour work with someone under 18. But this field is wide open
once one is of legal age. Unlike fashion modeling where you
career is over by the time you are 30 with glamour your career
could be just getting started. There is evendemand for good looking
grandmothers in their 50's and 60’s.
This
field is easy to get started in, as there are a lot of
photographers who would love to do test shoots and photo assignments on
spec. Finding work and getting test shoots has been made easy
with several web sites that cater to this field, although getting
top high paying work can take as much effort as becoming a high
fashion model. I will leave details and how this is all done to
some other web sites.
Naam
Kat Models School of fashion